Simple soil method

[Hill_billy]

Here's a link to my contribution for you dirt farmers...

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/supplies2553.JPG

(A) Supplies - "KISS"..I don't use a lot of extras or specialties. Equal parts vermiculite/perlite/quality potting soil, I prefer Black Gold, but everyone has a preference. I advise NOT to use anything with added /time release fertilizers. Any quality rooting hormone, I hapen to be useing Green Light, but Rootone, Olivias, ect., could be your preference. I use 8 oz. plastic cups with 8-10 drainage holes in the bottom. A sharp "sterile" razor knife. Scissors for various triming operations.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/donor2557.JPG

(B) Donor Mother - Mom has been growing inder cfl's in a 1 gallon pot. She was prepped a few hours prior with a soaking watering of Age Old Bloom 5-10-5. High Phosphate promotes rooting, as well as flowering. I believe the donors health is possibly the single most important factor.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/soakingcups2555.JPG

(C) Medium preparation - I put the pots/cups to set in pan of ph adjusted water. Letting them absorb from the bottom up, insures full, equal saturation.Vermiculite and peat tend to float and allow water to run through without good saturation when the medium is this light.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/candidateB2559.JPG

(D) A likely candidate - This is a likely candidate from midway up the donor plant. I like to start with shoots at least 4 inches long.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/45cut2562.JPG

(E) Cut 45* - slightly out of focus, but you can see the steep angle of the cut.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/cutting2563.JPG

(F) Cutting - the cutting as it was taken from the donor plant

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/trimmedcut2564.JPG

(G) Trimmed cutting - lower leaves trimmed off to accomodate planting. The spots where leaves have been taken provide growth spots for roots to start. With cuts like this scrapeing or scarification is not needed "IMHO

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/cutssoaking2566.JPG

(H) Soaking - hydrating in a weak kelp solution. I like to let them soak for 15-30 minutes.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/finalcut2571.JPG

(I) Final cut - A final cut at a 45* angle underwater. Aids in prevention of an 'air bubble' blocking the mainstem

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/cutinrotone2572.JPG

(J) Rooting hormone - make sure the cut is well coated. I remove excess by tapping the cutting briskly with a flick of the finger

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/holes2568.JPG

(K) Cups - Saturated and ready, with holes large enough to accomodate the cutting without scraping off the rooting hormone.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/planting2576.JPG

(L) Planting - holes should be large enuff that the stem slips easily in without scrapeing off the rooting hormone

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/planted2574.JPG

(M) Planted - press the medium firmly around the stem, contact with the stem is vital for rooting.

http://www.420genetics.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10010/domed2579.JPG

(N) Final step - I use plexiglass on top of the tupper ware container as a humidity dome. Remove it twice a day, for an hour or so, every day extending the time off, untill at the end of 7 days it can be removed completely. I only mist 'spareingly' if I see wilting dureing dome off. Clones need warm temps to root. 70-75 F is about ideal, in my experience. Roots should be visible in 7-10 days, another 7-10 they're ready for big pots.

[web420]

Excellent Post..... Hill Billy
I added it to the FAQ's
Thank you Sir
:animbong:

[Sparky]

Gonna have to give this a try myself someday....Thanks Billy Bob :smoke2:

[Mermaid]

Great step by step post ....love the pics Hillbilly! :bigok:

[Hill_billy]

thanks for posting those up weby..

[Hill_billy]

I guesse about the only thing that I can see to add that might be beneficial, would be, if you don't see roots within 10 days, don't panic or give up on them. Some strains may take longer.(up to 3 weeks) If they aren't obviously dead, have patience. They will come around.
Thanks again all, I hope someone benefits from it

[Wade Ounce]

Hey Hill_billy,

Cool post man. :hippie:

Good idea making final cut underwater to prevent air bubbles. I havent tried that before but will def give it a go next round....Also cool idea with flicking the excess hormone solution of the cutting. I have always previously just scraped the excess hormone gel from the cutting onto the jars lid, but after reading your post i think i'll go for the flicking method. I think that method, apart from leaving a more even coverage of hormone solution on the cutting, would also reduce any chance of any possible contimination from another cutting.

I like to use straight, presoaked coco peat as my cloning medium. I can pretty much leave it for the full 2 weeks in the humidy dome without disturbing apart from wiping the excess moisture off the lid when required.

[Justcheckingitout]

I use this same method and have had 100% success rate for a while now, it did take me a couple of times of loosing one or two cuttings to get it that way..... :cool2:

[shlinky]

This was bought to my attention by stromelk, thankyou for this thread guidance. To all here at 420g. thanks for the handy info & kindness of all who just simply put there hands up to help a old man stuck in the early ages.
My life is very hard, infact no body would understand here about living in the middle east, saudi born i am, danger gives me no fear, but determination to look after my family. As this is my only income, thankyou all for making my life better with knowledge upstairs that really counts most.

Allah Akbar, & GOD IS NOT GREAT. DRUGS ARE. RELIGION IS FOR WAR, NOT HAPPINESS. DRUGS ARE FOR MAKING MY STAY ON EARTH, A PISSA. :blazed:

[stromelk]

No problem Shlinky anytime

[medwinbird]

A simple technique for estimating ammonia volatilization losses from urea applied to soil are described. The soil was incubated with urea, hydrochloric acid, then added to prevent N losses from urea hydrolyzed drying soil.