Aww crap!

[THSea]

You'd think after growing this strain for 3 years I'd have it dialed in, but I have come to yet another problem! Maybe because they're F2s I get different phenos with different sensitivities. Man I dunno!

Anywho, here's the prob. I came home yesterday to some very unhappy girls. (pics below) I looked in the infamous plant "Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest Troubles" and it looks like this is light burn, but who knows? What do you guys think? This is getting worse by the minute. So much so that I actually turned off the 600wHPS entirely and just have 3 cfl's going. Please help me figure this one out quick!
http://420genetics.com/gallery/files/7/4/2/leafprob3_thumb.jpg (http://420genetics.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=2589)
http://420genetics.com/gallery/files/7/4/2/leafprob4_thumb.jpg (http://420genetics.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=2590)


So here's my setup info:

24x48x60
600w HPS w/vented hood
3 CFL's
Light is 10-15 inches away from tops
Cabinet and hood are each vented w/8 inch inline fan
Temps are usually around 80-85.
Ocean Forest Soil
Dolomite lime
Perlite
FoxFarms Nutes, growbig, big bloom, and tiger bloom
pH- 6.8 - 7.0

About my pH meter, is it normal for the needle to jump when you initially push the probe in the soil? Mine jumps to like 8 and immediately drops to 7 and then settles at about 6.8 a few seconds later. I don't know if that's normal or not since this is the only pH meter I have ever used.

The plants are approximately 1 month old clones that were taken from one month old moms. I don't know if it matters, but I trying to give you as much info as possible.

[Stash]

I'm not sure THSea...I will keep this posted in the shoutbox tho to make sure you get some help....Im sure some of our pro members will beable to help you out...Never seen them not have an answer yet...

[THSea]

Thanks Stash. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

In the meantime....:animbong:

[Mr.Wakenbake]

Honestly it looks to me like heat stress from the 600 being so close.Having the temps about 80-85 in the room is fine but I bet it's over 100 directly below that bulb. Move the light up to about 2 ft above the tops, and see if the problem subsides. At first glance it looks like a P def becuase of the purpeling in the leaves and stems and can still be a problem but I think it's more heat related. Your leaves are turning up on the edges to conserve moisture.

Remember if you keep a warm room with an intense light you must keep the plants cool and the only way to do that is to give them the proper amount of water .

A couple questions to ask is how fast do the pots dry out?


Do you foliar feed?


And have you fed recently? How much and how often?

[THSea]

Thanks for the info. I'll back the light off some and see what happens. They need watering about every 4-5 days. Would you agree that they don't look overferted? They're not dark green, no burnt tips. I'm just scared to add nutes when I have such a big problem. This is affecting all but two of my plants(the only two that are sativas), so if a P deficiency may have something to do with it, then I want to take care of that too. Do you suggest I give them a good dose of Tiger Bloom 2-8-4?

[Mr.Wakenbake]

hold on partner..... let's take this one step at a time...

Do you foliar feed at all or mist your plants at all?
The only reason why I ask is because that is Intravenial NECROSIS man...and alot of times it happens when folks foliar feed and the light burns holes in the leaves where the droplets are...

Did it gradually get like that like a Chlorosis(yelllowing) that has progressed into what we see or did it happen overnight so to say?

I wouldn't add anything for a week and see if backing the lights off helps. Just give them water as usual and wait and see. if it gets worse and you know that you haven't fed then it's a def. of some sort and the lights had nothing to do with it. 10-15 inches is just too close for a 600... that's the distance i keep my 250 @ lol a 600 should be atleast 18-24 inches above ... You have a small space and alot of light..backing it off a ways should help em.

Otherwise if it gets better than you know what the problem was. You don't want to compound your problems with more problems if your plants are otherwise healthy. Give em a week and watch them closely. They will tell you what you need to know.

[THSea]

Nope...I don't spray my girls for just that reason. I did notice some yellowing prior to the burns, in the same pattern that the burns appeared. It looked similar to some photos of magnesium deficiency, so I added some epsom salts, which obviously did not do the trick. I've also been feeding 1/2 strength every other watering. I need to water tomorrow, should I flush or just water as normal without ferts?

[THSea]

It's funny how I posted this on 3 different boards and nobody agrees. One board says it overfert, another says lights are too close, and yet another says pH is off. And, the only plant problems info webpage that had a picture resembling this specific problem said it from the lights being too close. Here's that picture by the way:

http://420genetics.com/gallery/files/7/4/2/lightburn_thumb.jpg (http://420genetics.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=2591)



I forgot to say that I flushed the last time I watered and then added one cup of water to each pot with some epsom salts (1/4 teaspoon per gallon) and full strength micronutes (1/10 oz per gallon).

I will be watering in about an hour with plain water.

[Tiberon]

http://www.420genetics.com/gallery/files/7/4/2/leafprob3.JPG

Necrosis for sure. But as to whats killing it....I couldnt be positive. I dont think its over-ferting.....that would start at the tips and work inward toward the plant.
I dont think its PH either.

I believe you either have a few hot spots in the room or lack of air movement.

Do you rotate your plants?

[AlienBait]

THSea, I'll give it a shot: Manganese Deficiancy. Manganese gets locked out at PH above 6.5, and since your PH is 6.8-7.0, that could be your problem. Here is the description of what Mn Def. looks like:

Having plants that are deficient in manganese can turn the young leaves into spotted (mottled) yellow and or brown areas on young leaves. Dead (Necrotic) yellow spots form on top leaves, while the lower older leaves will or may have gray specks and or spots. Symptoms can include yellowing of leaves while the leaf veins can stay green. Can also produce a chequered effect. As the plant gets newer growths the plant will seem to grow away from the problem, that’s why the younger leaves may be unaffected. On the top of the leaves, brown spots can appear. While the severe areas of the leaves turn brown and wither.

Sounds a lot like what you have.

[greenthumbdanny]

Hey bud, You had this problem once before it looks like.. Honestly with all the above said, Im going with a MG deficiency.. I see your ladies praying again..:thumbsup:
here is your old thread with the prob..
http://www.growkind.com/forum/showthread.php?p=198794#post198794

[THSea]

Hey GTD, how are you able to view the post with pictures present? I deleted all that stuff long ago and when I click on the link it doesn't show me any of the photos.

If you can actually see them, tell me how!:animbong:

[trillions of atoms]

i saw it earlier but now that u deleted it all u cant- why did u delete it??

[THSea]

:lite: : pipe: :blazed: :bongdude: An update...The plants aren't looking so hot. They're starting to yellow, probably because they're not getting any N now that I flushed twice. Plus the leaves that were in bad shape are much worse. My pH is still at the same 6.8-6.9. I have also backed off the 600w HPS to about 2 feet away and removed the cfls.

What do ya'll think I shoud do next? Should I feed em as normal (1/2 strength Grow Big and micronutes) and epsom salts(no mg in the micronutes:eek:)? When I have used epsom salts in the past I used 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. Is this a good rule of thumb? Some people are saying 1 teaspoon, and some even 1 tablespoon. I don't want to give them too much, or too little for that matter. I want my girls to be happy again, or at the very least be able to rule out mg as the source of the problem.

Thanks to everyone for all your help! :rasta2:

[THSea]

Trill, I deleted them months ago during a bout of paranoia...lol I do wish I hadn't but it's too late now.

[newf]

no doubt that first pic is heat stress,, the pic tibs posted looks like Mg def.

heat stress,, keep that light like 18 inches away,,, get a small desk fan at wally world for like $10,, blow right on the bulb, it will stop that..

plus if you go to hydro store and buy some chealated trace element it will help,, but use very little, not sure how big your grow is,, but i use a teaspoon of element for 12 plants, once in veg and once in flower,, but i guess it depends on what nutes you are using,,, bio bizz is a great nute,, very hard to fert burn and their new product (bioheaven will prevent any def's,, good luck

[newf]

:thumbsup:

[TRUBoss]

newf i was gonna post the same thing as soon i seen this pic
but i also used this i got off of a site a pretty long time ago


CHEMICAL BURNS
Plants suffer from chemical burns due to overfeeding. A plant with a chemical burn can be likened to a half-smoked joint. At the tip of the joint you have a shriveled gray ash. In the middle you see the burn creeping towards new paper, leaving a burn pattern behind it. At the end, there is the part you have not smoked yet. A plant chemical burn looks similar, and the leaf will tend to curl down and inwards into a claw shape at the tips.

The plant has a vascular system that takes in water and food and distributes these elements first to the bottom fan leaves, then upwards to the rest of the plant. This process takes time, as you know from Chapter 5. You will notice that the damage from chemical burns also starts on the tips of the fan leaves, then slowly moves towards the center and up the plant, leaving behind crispy matter that flakes away between your fingers. This is a chemical burn.

The main cause of a chemical burn is overfeeding that can occur if you use soil that contains high ratios of nutrients, if you use strong feeding mixtures or if you feed your plants too often.
To rectify chemical burns consult Chapter 6. If you cannot find a solution to what appears to be a chemical burn then check your medium's pH level. pH problems can sometimes resemble chemical burns or even nutrient deficiencies.

NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES
A nutrient deficiency looks like a cell collapse (the natural appearance of the firm leaves lose some or all of their stiffness), usually along with some form of discoloration and or wilting.The affected part may wither and die, but it should not look like chemical burn. That is the major difference between a chemical burn and a nutrient problem. In time, you should be able to easily tell the difference yourself. If you suspect a nutrient deficiency be sure to check your pH. If your pH is not right, then solve the pH problem before you attempt anything else. If you feel that the problem is pH related then consult chapter 6 for solutions to this problem.


Here is a quick step-by-step approach to troubleshooting problems with your
grow.

STEP 1: Examine your plant, looking first for the presence of insects or disease. When you have completed this search, eliminate any pests or disease using the advice in Chapter 12.
Also note the type of attack to make sure that your bug problem isn't really a nutrient problem. The two can be confused. Are there any black dots on them, which would indicate bugs? Do your leaves look discolored, dry and limp as if something has been sucking their fluids from them? This could be a nutrient disorder but pest attack can do this as well.
Nutrient problems damage the plant on a more consistent level than pest attacks, meaning that the damaged areas are not as sporadic as a pest attack. Nutrient disorders tend to be more linear — either affecting the bottom leaves moving upwards, or the top leaves moving downwards. The disorder should be somewhat regular unless the pest attack has managed to occur over the entire plant. This is why it is important for you, the grower, to check on your plants regularly so that you can identify problems sooner rather than later. This is essential to do because a problem left untreated is a problem that becomes increasingly more difficult to identify.
In short, pest damage is sporadic, random and often concentrated on a single area of the plants before moving onto another. Nutrient disorders are more regular and affect the plant in a linear movement running either from bottom to top or top to bottom.

STEP 2: If your plant is in the vegetative growth stage and the leaves are turning yellow at the base and this is moving slowly up the plant without upwards leaf curl then you need more nitrogen (l\l). If your plant is in the flowering stage and shows signs of stunted or slow growth, yellow leaves and it looks to be dying then you also need more l\l. Nitrogen problems also cause the stems to become soft and the leaves become a pale green color. Normally nitrogen problems occur with older leaf growth first. Severe nitrogen problems result in stunted growth and eventually plant death.
If your plant is in the flowering stage and looks red or dark green/yellow then you need to treat it with more phosphorus (P). Phosphorus deficiencies also result in stunted root development. Stems can become either very rigid or very weak depending on the strain.
If these measures do not help, proceed to Step 3.

STEP 3: If your plant's leaves are curling up, twisting and turning yellow then check to see if your light is burning them or if the grow chamber has enough air circulation. This is usually the result of heat stress. Consult chapter 6 for information on how to solve heat stress related problems.
If these are not the cause of the problem then you need to consider adding more magnesium (Mg) to your medium. Epsom salts are good for this. Prepare a mixture of 1/4 to 1/3 tablespoon of Epsom salts to three gallons of water and water your plant with this mixture.
Magnesium problems generally start with old leaves first and show signs of yellowing between the veins of the leaf moving outwards. The leaves curl upwards, hence the term 'praying for magnesium'. Necrosis is the eventual result of Mg problems. Although a plant can still grow to full maturity with Mg deficiency it certainly results in below average results.
If you still experience problems, go to Step 4.

STEP 4: If the tips of the leaves turn brown and curl slightly then you have a
potassium (K) problem. Solve this by adding more K to your plants.
Potassium problems also result in red/purple stems although this can be a genetic trait in the plant or due to a cold growing environment. To solve a cold growing environment problem turn to chapter 6 for advice. Potassium problems normally affect new growth first, before moving on to the older leaves. A potassium deficiency will also eventually affect the stems causing them to become either soft or brittle depending on the strain. In severe cases the plant will eventually die.
If this does not solve your problem, move onto Step 5.

STEP 5: Does your plant look wilted? Are the leaves drooping or curling down? This could be root rot or a watering problem, which sometimes can cause nutrient-like deficiencies to appear on the plant. For information on how to solve root rot problems turn to chapter 12 for guidance.
If this doesn't work check your soil. If your soil is very damp or very dry then turn to chapter 5 for information on soils and then turn to chapter 6 for watering information, related watering problems and solutions to those problems.
If this does not solve you problem go to Step 6.

STEP 6: If the veins are green but the leaves are yellow, this indicates an iron problem (Fe). Iron problems generally occur at new growth regions, which eventually turn necrotic and die. Add more iron to solve this problem. Although iron is not essential to plant growth you will certainly end up with less than average results if it is lacking. Iron problems do not tend to cause leaf curl at the start but as the necrosis spreads leaves may curl.
If this does not solve your problem then move on to Step 7. STEP 7: If the leaves are yellowing at the veins but the tips are fine and are not curling or twisting, you have a manganese (Mn) problem. Manganese problems can be solved by adding more Mn to your plants. If the problem persists, necrosis will set in and the leaves may curl. Plants do not need manganese to grow to full maturity but a lack of Mn will result in less than average results.
Move on to Step 8 if your problem still persists.

STEP 8: If you still have not solved your problem then add a secondary and micronutrient formula to your soil.This should help solve problems like Ca, S, Cu, B, Zn, Mo deficiencies, which are hard to detect and their respective symptoms are often different from strain to strain. By mixing a secondary and micronutrient formula you should be able solve these problems.
If this still has not solved the problem then turn to Step 9.

STEP 9: Still haven't solved it? Then flush your soil using the information provided in chapter 6 and find another type of plant food that has all of these: N, P, K, Ca, Mg and S. Purchase Epsom salts and get a small canister of micronutri-ents, such as iron, boron, chlorine, manganese, copper, zinc, and molybdenum. Try using a nutrient mixture that we've already mentioned in chapter 6.
If you don't want to flush your soil or transplant to another growing environment then proceed to Step 10.

STEP 10: Your plant may be experiencing nutrient lockout. There are a number of factors that can cause this problem. If you followed Step 9 properly then you shouldn't have this problem, but we'll explain it anyway. Lockout occurs when the plant cannot access a nutrient or a group of nutrients.This could be caused by the absence of nutrients (a deficiency) or by a chemical reaction in the medium/solution, which either causes a toxic substance to block the roots or a chemical reaction to take place, creating a new substance that changes the chemical properties of the other nutrients. As you can see this is a very broad subject matter. pH problems can lockout nutrients. The wrong soil type can also cause nutrient lockout. Under the right conditions, even water can lockout nutrients. But these lockout causes occur rarely, and more than likely something other than what the cannabis plant needs has been added to the solution to cause this reaction.
When in doubt, transplant into fresh soil or a fresh hydroponic solution. Certain feeding products might contain active ingredients that do not work well with cannabis. Lockout can only be solved by flushing or a transplant. With hydroponics you will have to change your nutrients. Out of date liquid feeding products can precipitate, causing nutrient lockout. Salt is another compound that can cause nutrient lockout. Follow Step 9 to solve these problems.
Your plant may be pot-bound or root-bound—it may simply have outgrown its pot. When the entire root mass grows to its maximum capacity, this can cause the plant stress and a variety of other problems that may resemble a nutrient problem. The only cure for this is to transplant the plant to a bigger pot. Follow the transplant method described in Chapter 9.

NO CURE FOR BAD GENETICS
When all else fails, you may have to face the fact that you are dealing with "a bad seed." There is a lot of garbage in the market. Problems associated with bad genetics include mutations, warping, flowering problems and poor germination rates that will often cause nutrient symptoms to appear even though your nutrient problem doesn't exist. The only viable solution is to obtain new genetics — preferably from a different breeder. Make sure that you let the originator of the seeds know about your problem. Seed banks sometimes do pull a line from the market because of consistent problems like germination rates or weak, unpredictable genetics.They only way they can find out about such things is to get feedback from you the client.

[THSea]

First off, I just want to thank everyone here who is trying to help me out. You are awesome! This is the way GK used to be back in the day and can only dream of being again one day.

As for the girls...well they just plain need some nitrogen at this point. The yellowing is progressing very fast since my flushes. I plan on watering next with 1/2 strength peters 20/20/20 micronutes and epsom salts. I don't use the peters anymore, but desperate times call for desperate measures. I used to use peters for veg but stopped when I started using the foxfarms line. Hopefully this will bring the green back. If this fails, I'm just going to give up on them and continue with my widow, blueberry, and bubbleicious seedlings and go from there.

We shall see eh?

[trillions of atoms]

u need to get some cal mag and some better nutes- peters fert is BAD like mircle grow! i would get some fish emoulsion and even make a fert tea out of cow manure... put some in a pillowcase and place in 3 2-3 gallons of water in a bucket or rubbermain, long the soak the stronger the tea throw in an airstone and this will DEFFINATELY help.

[greenthumbdanny]

I agree Trill.. Better line of nutrients..

I still am going with the MG deficiency being I seen it many times and plants no matter what strain show the same effects.. Just my thought.. If you got some good nutrients you wont run into this problem.. I use pure blend pro with CAL MAG never during my Veg do these probs accure. Try it you'll see..:thumbsup:

[THSea]

I have do have a bottle of fish emulsion, so I'll give that a try instead of the Peters. As for getting better nutes, I won't be able to go to the hydro store until next weekend. I will get the Cal Mag and look into some other ferts that they have available.

[newf]

go organic buddy, , little more expensive but well worth it.....

[greenthumbdanny]

I forgot to mention. All this trouble shooting bullshit probs with deficiency's can be eliminated no more trial and error and no more guess work.. If you use Pure Blend Pro Grow in conjunction with Cal Mag you will find yourself not running into any of these common so easily corrected problems with grows. Pure Blend is a complete one part stand alone nutrient..

Until experienced enough to play with other lines of nutrients/fertz and Key micro nutrients that the plant needs to be healthy and happy I suggest to everybody who has or is experiencing the same probs go with pure blend pro..






repost but a damn good one lol.

[newf]

yes and bio bizz has a new product out called bioheaven,, it will prevent any defs as well

[Mr.Wakenbake]

Well look at it this way, you would rather have some slight defficiency problems than over fert problems. Once the def is corrected your plants will recover. If you over fertilize then you plants never recover from that...ever.. and it normally hits you in the yeild dept.

Just remember to stick to a schedule and feed on that schedule. If a problem occurs/gets worse after a flush of the soil then 9/10 times it's a defficiency.
Next time just remember this and add the extra Mg as needed throughout the grow. Another thing to fix this is to have the proper amount of dolomite lime in your soil as it will/should have all the mg you should ever need right there .....

anyways glad we got the problem diagnosed.:thumbsup:

[trillions of atoms]

anyways glad we got the problem diagnosed.







?????


he hasnt even posted back......

[THSea]

Well, we'll se what happens. I fed 2 days ago, so now I'm just watching and waiting. Doesn't seem to have helped much if at all. If I don't see some good results by Friday I'm just going to chop them down and continue with the new genetics. I'll let you know. I'll probably post new pics tonight or tomorrow.

[THSea]

oops...double post

[Mr.Wakenbake]

Okay THSEA listen up! DON"T FUCKING CHOP DOWN THEM PLANTS!
your plants growth is now going to have to recover from the stunting due to lack of key nutrients and it's going to take more then a few days to recover from.. Give em 2 weeks atleast of proper feedings and waterings and you will change your mind.


Now, we figured out whats' wrong... Your plants were starving.

What you have as the cause of it is necrosis of the leaf matter . Necrosis is dead patches in the leaves normally comes right after chlorosis in that same spot. Chlorosis is a yellowing of the leaf material.

Now 1 thing to remember. NEITHER OF THESE PROBLEMS ON THE AFFECTED LEAF MATERIAL IS REVERSIBLE! NONE OF IT.

So basically what you are looking for is it to stop spreading. The plants will be noticably better and new growth will be everywhere. You have probably noticed a slow in growth also. So now you feel that the plants won't get better and produce alot, but they will.

Remember defficiencies are much easier on the plant to recover from then over fertilization of whatever nutrient.

Whatever you do, don't cut them fucking plants.... Doing so is giving in and you will learn absolutely NOTHING.Feed the plants regularly for a couple weeks and they will recover. I also reccomend that when you feed start out @ 1/2 dosage ... then next feeding/watering give em a full dose.Organics preferably.. ...

Don't cut them plants THSEA that's not the way to learn from this....

[THSea]

Went to the hydro store today and picked up the Cal-Mag and PBP grow and bloom. I also picked up a bottle of Final Phase, a flushing solution from advanced nutrients. And the guy there tried to sell me on phosphoload. What do you think of this product? He made it sound damn good! It was super expensive though, so I don't know if it's really worth the $50.

I think I'm going to nurse these girls back to optimum health and take some clones and flower them along with clones of my DJ True Blueberry, Nirvana White Widow, and Nirvana Bubbleicious. Maybe do a SOG this time around.

Mr. Wakenbake, I'm am so quick to give in because I am sooooo bored of Nirvana's K-2. I've been growing it and smoking it for so long that I just want something new, hence my new genetics. I would like to cross the strains, and create some unique seeds to play with in the future. So, ideally here's what I will do...

BBxK-2
BBxWW
BBxBB
BBxBubblicious
BBxCrystal Limit(sativa)

And

WWxK-2
WWxBubbleicious
WWxBB
WWxWW
WWxCrystal Limit

And

BubbleiciousxBB
BubbleiciousxWW
BubbleiciousxBubbleicious
BubbleiciousxK-2
BubbleiciousxCrystal Limit

This all depends on which are males and which are females...(K-2 and CL are all females) but that's the plan in a nutshell.

[greenthumbdanny]

Glad to hear the good news on your recent purchaces with the botanicare products. :thumbsup: Give your plants a good flushin, Follow the directions, and no more grower errors on your part, your plants will recover nicely. Next grow you will see the lucious green growth during your veg stage with no deficiencies. The CAL MAG used in conjunction with the pb will give you the results you want. :icon_smil

[THSea]

Thanks GTD. I can't wait to see how this nute line fares out. Do you have any info on that phosphoload stuff? It's supposed to be the same as superbud. Basically stops vertical growth so your plants put an emphasis of flowering instead. I dunno...sounds good fo a tall sativa.:blaze:

[greenthumbdanny]

I have read very little about it. But now I'm more curious. I am always iffy about trying new things when it comes to the grow. I tend to stick with what works and I figure why rock the boat.. I think this year I'm gonna try to branch out and do some experimenting with new products solos Jones.

[UrBigBuddie01]

It's funny how I posted this on 3 different boards and nobody agrees. One board says it overfert, another says lights are too close, and yet another says pH is off. And, the only plant problems info webpage that had a picture resembling this specific problem said it from the lights being too close. Here's that picture by the way:

http://420genetics.com/gallery/files/7/4/2/lightburn_thumb.jpg (http://420genetics.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=2591)



I forgot to say that I flushed the last time I watered and then added one cup of water to each pot with some epsom salts (1/4 teaspoon per gallon) and full strength micronutes (1/10 oz per gallon).

I will be watering in about an hour with plain water.

I mysewlf recently have been having some PH problems for the 1st time,ol, believe it or not. And ive been reading up in the sickplants and pest problems in GrowKind.com, and i found my solution, and it is the exact SAME as yourself's, exept, the other way round.....

Ive reacently found out my PH was too High, so i lowered it by adding some Jiff Lemmon Juice(1Tbl sppon to 1 littre watter) and poured it onto my sick(what i thaught was a mag def, or a Nitro def of some kind, but i did not for the life of me think anything to do with PH), but, hey........ there ya go....lol

You say you use Dolomite Lime in your MIx???

Yea you do , you say so, so, anyway..... Dont know exactly(as i said "im no expert when it comes to PH at all...) But, when i found out i was ammazed to be honest at how easy it was fixable, and i saw plenty pics describing and looking exactly like your pics show right now/this instant!!!

You ned some DOWN PH stuff, i was reading it, but i cant remember any of the stuff to lower your PH, but the pic shows definate PH prob's, and yes, that "Will" lead to alot more prob's, like Nute prob's ect ect....... Like it always does with PH

Im now stressing how important is actually "is" to have your PH nice n good for you plants development n growth stages!!!

Peace Out,
Hope this can/has helkped ya my friend,
UrBigBiuddie01.............;) :icon_smil :rasta2: :blaze: :thumbsup: :blaze: