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Harvesting, Curing & Processing Discuss Different Methods Here!

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  #1  
Old 10-15-2009, 12:38 AM
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Default Drying and Curing seeds

Im at the end of my first attempt at breeding and have my first batch of seeds! Currently they are still in the lady I chopped down 2 days ago and are being dried with the de-humidifier.

DJ-Shorts book says they need to dry for 2 months to increase viability. I guess that means I can get those beans popped untill somtime early 2010...

the seeds were created from a northern misty female (old school northern lights X early misty) and a MKU x ICE male. The male in question was a backwards hermaphrodite (showing 90% male traits with slight female flowers at the end and lots of stinky, STINKY THC)

I pollintated the female at 30 days flower and harvested a bit early at 50 days. The seeds were bursting out of the calyxs before I harvested.
The seeds look good and plump, kind of light brown with slight tiger stripes...

Is there anything special I need to know? Should I leave the seeds to dry out inside the bud as it is curing? or is it better to de-seed my weed before that and let the seeds dry loosely?
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:45 PM
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Let the seeds dry for at least 3-4 weeks. 2 months is better, but you will be OK at 4 weeks. After 4 weeks, store them with a few grains of uncooked rice. The rice acts as a desiccant. I let the seed dry inside the bud. After the bud is dry, remove the seeds and store in an OPEN container. Then add the rice. Storage in fridge is fine if you plan on using the seeds within a year. Longer term storage requires deep freezing.

You shouldn't "breed" with a hermie btw. You are going to find that most of the offspring will carry the same trait. So you basically made a bunch of hermie seed. Use only true breeding females and males for your seed making. You are going to have to search for non hermie offspring. That means testing them via torture (light poisoning, PH, overfeed, underfeed, basically stress the shit out of them) to make sure they don't carry the hermie trait.
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:42 PM
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Hi Useless, thanks for the info.

I know that typically your not supposed to breed with any kind of hermie but I read a section in DJ Shorts book (not sure if your familiar with it) that talks about it.

Under the chapter "The art of breeding"

Quote directly from the book-

"Backwards" hermies are declared males that eventually sport frmale flowers (as opposed to the usual female-male hermies). These are rare occurences, usually sterile but somtimes viable, that I found to be genetically valuable. Many resinious and desierable males exhibit this trait, which almost gurantees against unwanted hermaphroditism in subsequent generations as it also increases the female-male ratio in its progeny.

The male in question has alot of visable trichomes and also stinks like a skunks ass.
Im not sure what I will get, I know there is no gurantees but Im hoping for the best.
Thanks again Useless
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Old 10-16-2009, 03:41 PM
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Yea I have read that. It doesnt jive with RC CLarke and MJ Botany though. I certainly am no DJ, but I have a bit of experience and have read a crapload of info on breeding.

I do know it is somewhat rare, but not all that uncommon. This trait is seen most often in Landrace Thai's from my experience.
Whether or not the trait is dominant and shows in it's offspring is yet to be determined, as you will have to grow the seeds to find out. However, even if the trait is recessive, you still bred it into the offspring. You need to search the offspring for ones that do not have the trait, not ones that just carry it as recessive.
You could effectively breed the trait out if you find a male and a female offspring that are true breeding non-herms in the F1. Make some F2's, again making sure the trait is not passed on. This will give you more variation than the F1 generation, but if you select for the traits you desire (again testing to make sure they are true breeding) and work it through the F4-F5 generation, you will have removed the herm trait from the genes, and created a stable line of your very own. At least, that is the route I would take to insure I have a stable, non hermie line. It is time consuming for sure, requires space for seletion and stress testing, but it is way worth it if you are planning to work/grow the cross for a while.

Just my $0.02
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:16 AM
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Right on Dude! I know it's just your two cents but I cant even measure the value! I will keep you updated and follow those guidelines, cheers!
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